Season 21 of Project Runway has officially ended. The show that opened the conversation around what happens behind the seams of the dress and how unglamorous the creative process can be continues to be a trending topic. A lot of things have changed since season 20 aired in 2023. We are having more conversations about the role of collaborations and storytelling through design. Designers are expected to know the basics of styling—it is not just about creating a good look, but also about how hair, makeup, and accessories work together to enhance your overall look. The person designing the dress can become as important as the dress itself, so we saw strong personalities in season 21 who, for positive or negative reasons, became a trending topic because they were outspoken and generated conversations about either their work or the persona they were portraying on the show.
But as with almost every Reality TV show, there are elements of reality and there are elements of fiction. We need moments of fiction to help us escape from the daily news, our routine and whatever is happening in our surroundings. Let’s talk about some truths and myths from Project Runway and how much they truly reflect the fashion industry.
One day you are in and the next day you are out?
An emblematic phrase of Heidi Klum when the fashion show was about to begin. Of course, this phrase made emphasis on the fact that after each runway, there would be a designer eliminated from the competition. But how accurate is this phrase in today’s atmosphere?
Fashion designer Alexander Wang was accused by multiple individuals of sexual assault and misconduct in 2020 - 2021. The designer’s representatives denied the claims, the designer later apologized to the individuals, and submitted a public apology on social media. A few years have passed, and as Washington Post reporter Rachel Tashijan states, “we live in a time of magical uncancellations.
Dolce and Gabbana and John Galliano are other examples of ‘uncancellations’ where one day you are out but two days later you are back in. This argument can also be made about a convicted felon guilty of 34 counts who, months later, was sworn in as the head of the government.
It’s also ironic that season 21 was not necessarily an All Stars season where contestants from previous seasons would participate, yet Jesus Estrada was a former Project Runway contestant from Season 7 and Caycee Black was a former Project Runway contestant from Season 19. They were out but they were back in future seasons.
Judges are tough
Fashion is tough because judges are tough because consumers are tough because the entire industry is tough. It is an endless circle where there is a lot of talent and creativity to uplift. The stakes are very high because every minute, every stitch, and every decision represents a lot of money.
Elle’s Editor-in-Chief Nina Garcia, a consistent judge in Project Runway, delivers accurate, specific, and very valuable feedback to the designers. Her background and experience, having worked in the editorial world for several decades, have allowed her to see hundreds of designers and designs all around the world. Although there is an argument to be made about how not all fashion is for everyone and not every dress will be everyone’s cup of tea, Nina focuses on the editorial side of fashion, which is extremely valuable to the designers.
The fashion designers who have been judges on Project Runway have included Michael Kors, Zac Posen, Georgina Chapman (founder of Marchesa), and Isaac Mizrahi. Their contributions as creators and as individuals who understand what it takes to make a design work seem to be the most well articulated since they can say from the other side of the stage what they could have done better from a technical perspective. Designing clothes is a language that includes complex tenses such as fabrics, drapes, proportions, and finishes. The designers who serve as judges have helped the participants navigate these challenges with specific feedback.
Fashion is drama
Drama can happen in a reality TV show about fashion, or cooking, or dating, or singing, or dancing, or painting. The 21st season of Project Runway was perhaps the most dramatic and less fashion-forward forward given how talented the designers are.
Breaking a zipper ten minutes before the runway is an absolute tragedy that deserves all the tears and mental breakdowns the show suggests, but the eagerness to tear each other down rather than working to be stronger together and learn from each other really depends on the group that creators surround themselves with. We have seen seasons where designers give each other constructive feedback in the design and construction process, they cheer each other and develop strong friendships and alliances that only make their work stronger and more informed. Drama is not an indispensable feature in fashion, but it is a frequent guest given how many emotions are at stake.
Fashion is messy
When Project Runway first premiered, established figures from the fashion industry had resistance and skepticism about the narrative that this show would convey around fashion. Before Project Runway and before social media, there was a sense of mystery where nobody really knew what happened in the workroom and what the process of making a dress was like. The fashion industry liked this mystery because it made it more interesting and captivating. It is like watching a developed character without knowing its origin and how it got there. By bringing the curtains down and showing the fabric being slashed, the tears, the running around, and the mixed reactions that happened behind doors, the fashion industry was showing the consumer a side of itself that they hadn’t seen before.
Only one right answer
Although there have been plenty of instances where the judges disagree with each other, there is a consistent generalization about what American fashion should look like. There tends to be a blend of creativity with opportunity to mass produce and escalate to a larger market, but there have been instances where the perspectives and talents of designers were misunderstood, misinterpreted or simply misused due to the format and constraints of the competition.
Patricia Michaels was the first Native American Project Runway participant whose work relies heavily on textile treatments. Everything from weaving to dyeing and embroidering. None of these processes is quick, and they usually require tools, space, and more time. One could argue that the competition has its format, time constraints, and rules. However, one cannot disregard the slow fashion movement and the popularity that artisans and textile crafstwomen like Patricia have gained in recent years as consumers have gained a larger appreciation for unique pieces rather than cookie-cutted clothes.
It is great to see the creative process of designers from different backgrounds on Project Runway. Their different ages, cultures, and personalities help us understand why each and everyone of those voices in the fashion industry matter as there is a market for every demographic. Who will be in next season and who will be out?
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