There is not enough diversity in fashion, but this is not a new statement.
Every fashion week, journalists and spectators pay close attention to the models walking the runway, the guests watching the show, the host countries of these fashion celebrations, and the creative minds behind these looks. But stepping off the runway, where else is there to go in the fashion industry to diversify the workforce in a way that enhances and strengthens to its fullest potential what fashion can be?
Just in 2022, fashion represented 556 billion dollars in the USA alone. There are so many jobs and work behind this huge amount of money, and a common misconception in fashion is to believe that fashion is only what happens on the runway during fashion week. There are fashion merchandising jobs, marketing strategies, and campaigns to introduce collections and new products. There are sewers, pattern-makers, designers, researchers, illustrators, and sample makers. Then there is the business side of the fashion company, which takes care of finance, human resources, IT, and partnerships. There's also a growing UX/UI team in charge of websites, apps, and social media presence to expand and enhance the interactions of the customer with the fashion industry. The list continues to grow as the industry itself evolves and adapts to the needs of the consumer.
The fashion world encompasses a wide variety of jobs and decision making processes because the consumer is anyone and everyone who wants clothes and wants to buy clothes; and there are now more opportunities to target niche customers because companies can have international presence as long as they are online and they have an idea to present to their customer.
Clothing consumers are people of all ages, genders, and backgrounds. And here’s where the problem begins. Because even though fashion is a matter that involves every person of every background, the choices made by the fashion industry are made by a very selective kind of demographic that don’t reflect the wide variety of backgrounds of the clothing consumer. In other words, fashion is not diverse enough.This has proven to be an erroneous direction for the fashion industry that companies are hoping to fix as they are seeing that customers are focusing on the values of a company and what they stand for. The first and most important step that the fashion industry needs to take is to diversify the fashion industry across all of the processes of decision making. We have seen instances where the lack of diversity has led to decisions that are culturally insensitive, unlawful, and end up recurring on financial consequences.
Let's go over some of the key layers of the fashion industry where we must diversify the workforce in order to enrich its fullest potential and truly represent the demographics and points of view of all customers.
Diverse leadership
Hiring, administering budgets, identifying systems, workflows, methods of communication, and office culture are some of the decisions that, more often than not, are led by managers, supervisors, and heads of a company. These decisions can set a company up for success or failure.
In 2020, as Black Lives Matter protests raged across the country, several employees, students, and customers called out fashion companies for not doing enough for diversity, equity, and inclusion. Concepts like white privilege and white silence became recurring concepts of conversations as DEI consultants and advisors were on high core demand on the often called “Summer of allyship”.
The leaders of a company have the power to communicate a message to millions of people across the world. They are also responsible for the financial stability of a large group of people, which in many ways is directly connected with their well-being. (Financial stability gives you access to good healthcare, food and housing). But when companies decide to do the bare minimum, and focus on the optics of being “diverse”, this strategy backfires and the customer notices it.
In the summer of 2020, the mainstream media talked about division and segregation about a matter that occurs across schools, workplaces, pop culture, entertainment, politics, art, housing, finance, fashion.
But how can the fashion industry tackle division and segregation if the leaders in charge of decision making have not experienced it firsthand and are unaware of how to recognize it?
Suppose a fashion company hires a leadership team of fully Ivy League, white, cisgender people to lead their diversity, equity, and inclusion efforts. In that case, there are so many things they will not be able to recognize at first, and it may take years for them to figure out what the problems and areas of improvement are. They might never be able to identify the problems they should tackle to begin with.
A person who has been discriminated against knows what discrimination looks and feels like. A person whose ideas are often shut down or disregarded because of the color of their skin, their background, their accent, their religion or their gender will be able to see when those voices in the room have been silenced.
Several fashion companies make the mistake of thinking that diversity is simply hiring a diverse workforce for entry-level jobs. These employees, who often work face-to-face with the customers as sales associates, stylists, or cashiers, are very important for a coherent and functional workflow in a fashion company. But real change towards equity in fashion can only happen when the leadership team of a fashion company is diversified.
Diversity in education
Education gives us the basics to start a professional career in the field we decide to pursue. Lawyers learn the fundamentals of law and how it’s applied. Architects learn to make scaled models and everything to consider when making a building. Fashion designers learn how to do research, develop a fashion concept, illustrate it, learn how to make it, and present it to the public.
Now, let’s think about the fashion illustrations we most commonly see on websites and portfolios—skinny, elongated figures. The concept of “diversity in fashion” is justified with a dark brown marker to render the skin instead of a pale beige. But it is rare to see fashion illustrations with Black, Latina, Asian, or Native American physical characteristics beyond the skin tone. Those face studies that require classes and effort from teachers and schools to invest time and resources to push the curriculum forward and teach students more than one path towards beauty in fashion.
When it comes to learning how to sew garments, there is another big issue. Because fashion students sign up for their classes hoping they will be able to learn how to design for plus-size people, for people who look like them, and for those who don’t want a gender attached to the clothes they are wearing. But the biggest dress forms are often size 9, and the pattern books and syllabus are structured by womenswear and menswear. Where’s the space between binary genders in fashion education, and where are the plus-size pattern making classes that the students are hoping to have? As the opportunities to diversify the fashion industry to create clothes that are welcoming for every person, there is an opportunity to create careers for designers that create those clothes that fulfill people’s needs and lets them be their authentic selves —but this must start with fashion education.
This diversification can only be accomplished when you diversify fashion education, including faculty, students, and staff. It is the students who bring their personal history with clothes and their culture as a source of inspiration that becomes an important asset to their fashion journey, which then helps the other classmates to learn something about a different culture or another aspect of fashion. It is the faculty who needs to be able to connect with the diverse body of students in a profound way. Listening to why the students want to make the clothes they want to make. Understand where their point of view is coming from and why this is important. The students learn from the teachers but at the same time, teachers in design schools must be open to diversifying their curriculum in a way that accurately represents the diverse demographics of their students —and the global customers overall.
There are stories of privilege and stories of oppression. There are stories of success, and stories of loneliness, and struggles. Diversifying fashion education can help people from different backgrounds to learn from each other and connect their stories of privilege, oppression, success, and loneliness, to feel heard and produce the work they were hoping to produce when they enrolled in fashion school in the first place.
Moreover, faculty in fashion schools need to teach considering different points of view. The world doesn’t need a whole senior class of emerging designers every year who is only designing for the top 1%. We need fashion designers who can and want to create clothes for the rest of the world. Because if they are not educated on addressing the diversity of backgrounds in the fashion market, they arrive at the workforce creating clothing based on assumptions. Fashion schools need to address the importance of considering diversity when designing, and one of the very first steps to do so, is to diversify the faculty, and staff who lead these fashion programs.
Diverse creative talent
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel was very offended by the fact that most men were designing clothing for women. Chanel believed that it is a woman who is able to understand the body, the thought process, the challenges and struggles, and the vision of a woman’s life behind every piece of clothing they wear, something that men would simply not be able to experience firsthand.
This is true when we talk about fashion and race, fashion and religions, fashion and genders, fashion and socioeconomics, and the list can keep going. A very well-educated fashion designer from London can do their best to produce a fashion collection for people in Colombia. The designer can do research, read about the country, and maybe even visit if time and money allow them to do so. Still, they will never experience what being Colombian is and what are the thoughts, desires, concerns, forms of lifestyle, and ways of living of someone from Colombia.
The problem with a globalized fashion market is that a fashion brand can be available to the whole world. The problem is that most brands have creative talents who represent a very small fraction of the population. This way, they are not able to fully understand their customer and make creative decisions based on assumptions that very often end up in tragic mistakes such as unconscious biases, cultural appropriations, or misgendering.
Diversifying the creative talent of a fashion company is very important to make sure that customers are being heard. A fashion brand is not diverse if they only hire Black people to walk on the runway and pose on the catalog but are not sitting at the creative table making decisions for black customers.
We need fashion designers who understand what it feels like not to find your size at the store, and when you shop it online, the clothing doesn’t look good because there is not enough education in patternmaking for plus sizes.
We need fashion designers who have tried clothing of their opposite sex assigned at birth so that they can bring their firsthand experience with the nonbinary spectrum of fashion to consumers who are looking for this clothing.
We need fashion designers who are not size 0, 6 feet, and have hundreds of dollars to spend on dresses. This is the market that many fashion educators target with their syllabi. But we need fashion designers that can design for the rest of the world.
Diversifying the fashion industry is about making it more democratic, ensuring that everyone’s voice is being heard and accurately represented, after all, it is Political Fashion.
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